Advanced Cura Settings to Get The Best 3D Prints

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Hello, everyone! Today, we’re going to talk about Cura, which is the best software for 3D printers that slices things. Part 1 of a three-part series about everything starts today. I think you should know about Cura, and today’s article is going to be about how fast and how well your prints go. I’m going to go over not only the settings in Cura but also real prints. So we can know what the settings actually do and how they affect our prints.

The best setting for Cura Slicer:

Let’s just jump right in and start. We are now in cura. I’m running this on a Mac, but that shouldn’t make much of a difference if you’re using Windows. I do want to mention one thing. 5.0 is the version of Cura that I use. This version is the most up-to-date one. So, if you read this article in the future, there may have been some changes, and the interface may look a little bit different. But in general, cura hasn’t changed much in the past few years.

Advanced Cura Settings

Here I’m also going to teach you some theories about what these things mean. So, first of all, I’d like to say a few words about quality. When I’m about to 3D print something, quality is probably one of the first things I think about. So, if you can’t see this menu right here and only see this, all you have to do is click on this top menu right there, and it will drop down. So, if you click “Quality,” you’ll see a few things here. However, the main thing that determines the quality of your 3D print is how thin each layer is. In FDM printing, each layer is built on top of the one before it.

Layers Setting:

So, if you have very thin layers, your quality will be higher, and if you have very thick layers, your quality will be lower. If you want to change the height of your layers, you should go to layer, height, and cura. Has a few features that will help you out a lot if you are new to cura. So, if you roll your mouse over any of these settings, you’ll see this dialogue box pop up. This is great because, since there are so many settings, you can actually see what it does and how it affects things. And it’s also what it’s affected by. Here, you can see how the layer height affects all of the things that are being printed. If all of your settings are correct, all of the boxes should be grey, which is a great feature.

This is not what you should be doing, or it will affect something else and make it impossible for you to do what you want. You can still leave it that way since I’ll sometimes have a setting. That’s just a little outside of what you should do to get the effect I want, but it will still print, so the Cure isn’t telling you that you can’t do it. It’s just trying to gently remind you that there’s one more thing you need to keep in mind when you’re doing your layer height, and that’s this one, right, underneath your initial layer height. This is the first layer you add.

So, no matter what I’m doing when I’m printing, I always print my first layer with a thick layer height so that it will stick well to the bed, and I almost always use a 0.2 layer height. Because that gives me really good bed adhesion, but you should play around with this, and by the way, I stick to a 0.2. Even if I’m printing at a 0.08, I really want that first layer to be thick and get a lot of time on the bed. That’s because that first layer really shows you what happens to your model when you change the settings.

Let’s jump right into seeing these things, and I’ll show you some really good close-ups to help you better understand what the quality and layer height is. The first part I’m going to work on is the very top of the model. This is a 0.8 mm layer height, and you can see that the gradation is not as sharp as it looks. Some of that leveling off is starting to happen, but it’s not that bad. You could scratch this with sandpaper, but it wouldn’t be noticeable after just a few swipes. There was that so, depending on your layer height at any top point of your model, you’ll see those like gradations and how soft the angle is, so you can see here that they’re not that bad, and you can also see how smooth they are. This is crazy, and this is smooth.

This is a perfect print. You can see the buckle, all the straps, and every other detail. When you move on to a layer height of 0.1 millimeters, you can see that the lines start to stand out more because the gradation is stretching it. So it’s beginning to get better. The back looks great.

Wall Setting:

So the vertical walls and other similar things do look great. Moving on to a 0.2-millimeter layer height, you can see that you’re starting to get stairs like it’s just stepping down down down down, and it’s not that great, especially when you have a subtle gradation, which is where this will really hurt you. But if you look at it from the side, it’s not bad at all. The parts that stand out are the ones that are subtle, like the straps here, where you can see that everything is starting to come together [Music]. You can start to see how many layers there are.

Cura wall setting

Moving on to a 0.28-millimeter layer height, you can see that this is bad, but if you just need a print and don’t care about detail, this could work for you. However, you can almost count these lines like a number. If I stopped this, you could easily count how many lines it was, and you can really see all of those lines. This is a very high millimeter layer height, and this is a 0.3-millimeter layer height, just a little bit higher. Here’s where things can go wrong, and I’ll show you right there.

Extruder Setting:

My extruder couldn’t push out enough to get good layer adhesion, so it was actually starting to come apart. I could probably take this apart right now, and if you look at some of the details, they’re just not there. It’s not a great print compared to the crown of the head at a 0.8 mm layer height. If I change my lighting, you can really start to see how it was barely sticking because I was going too high for my nozzle compared to the. Height of the layer in millimeters. It stuck all the layers together, but by point three, it wasn’t sticking all the layers together anymore.

It just wasn’t sticking well to the model, and the layers weren’t sticking well to each other. So, once you get higher, you need to be careful. Okay, so the next one is speed, which is under this tab called. How do you feel about speed? So, your print speed is how fast your nozzle actually moves. This can change a lot of things, and I get asked about it a lot. How do I get such smooth prints? This is the answer I always give.

The answer I always get is the same. Oh, god, ugh, no, never mind. That’s because to get really clean prints, you have to print really slowly, and I print most of my busts and figures at 20 millimeters per second. So when I say “20-millimeter speed,” I mean that it’s moving 20 millimeters per second, which isn’t very fast. This is because the faster you move, the more flow it has to get through the nozzle, and eventually, you’ll hit a speed where your nozzle can’t push that much filament out, which is why you get sputtering, and it looks like it’s not pushing out enough filament because there are gaps in the pattern. People sometimes think they have a clogged nozzle when, in fact. They are just printing too fast. So, if you’re trying to get your prints done as quickly as possible by printing at a really fast speed and you’re having weird problems, why don’t you just try a print and print it a little bit slower?

Speed Setting:

Now I’ll print up to 60 mm per second because I’ve found that I can still get pretty good quality at that speed. But if I want a high resolution, I get a very low layer height and a very slow speed. When you put these two things together, you can get some great prints, but if you have a lot of things on your printer and some of them are thin or don’t touch the bed much, they could break off very easily. If your travel speed is very fast, it can actually hit it if, for example, some filament is still on the tip and it hits it, breaking it off the bed. So, these are some other things to think about so that you don’t have to print slowly.

Speed Setting

But if you have delicate prints of small, intricate things, you might want to try playing with your travel speed. So, I’ve printed a few more of these Deadpool heads at different speeds, but they were all printed at the same point: one layer height. So let’s go to those and see what the difference in quality is really like. This model was then printed at 20 mm. A second that is very slow, and you can see that the gradation and everything else is super smooth and clean.

You can look at the pouches and see how clean they are. You can also look at the back and see how smooth it is. This model has great details and no real flaws, so it can be printed at a size of 70 millimeters. You can see that some of the edges are a little rougher at this magnification because the speed is so fast. At that speed, it can’t push the filament out in a steady flow. So, if you look at the side of the face, you can see that there are some flaws. This is where the filament either catches up and pushes out more than it needs to, or it doesn’t push out enough. This can happen when you print too quickly.

So you can kind of see some of the patterns and how some of that happened right here. That’s not because of layer lines; it’s because of too much extrusion, which is where you can really start to get those zits. If you’re having some of these problems, it could be because you’re printing too quickly; slow down. Then, if you look at the speed of 160 millimeters per second, you can see that it has gotten even worse, and if this is a small model, it is a small model. So it’s not as obvious, but the bigger the model, the more it shows. The more of these problems you see, like how it prints too fast and can’t keep up with the flow, I’m just showing you different places where this is happening.

Uh. On the back and along the bottom edge, you can sort of see some bumps. You can see under “extrusion” that the hole in the middle of that strap and some of those little pits are there because it’s always trying to push out enough. But it’s not going fast enough because the nozzle can’t keep up with the flow speed it needs. The other thing is overhangs. At 20 millimeters per second, you can see that that chin looks great.

For an FDM printer, the layering and the way it comes out are really, really good. This is pretty amazing, but if you look at the 70, it’s going too far out. The problem is that it’s getting close to the edge of the overhang, but it’s not cooling down fast enough. So it starts to droop and sag, and you can kind of start to see those bumps. It’s even more obvious on the hundred when you realize that this is a small model. This isn’t a bad thing. But when you start making bigger prints, you’ll really start to notice this a lot, and that’s when you can start to see the filaments just kind of fall off, and your bottoms look really bad.

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