How to Print Faster on Your Ender 3 Printer Using Cura

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In a recent article, I discussed advanced Cura settings for better prints, with the goal of enhancing the quality and reducing time spent printing. There are a couple of options I’ll reveal in this post, though, that can decrease your print times in half. The only problem is that I’m receiving a lot of queries on exactly how things have changed and what each parameter and cura does. Fortunately, In this post, I can assist you to understand all of that. Using Cura, I’ll teach you how to print quicker with your Ender 3, Ender 3 v2, or even Pro printer.

How to Print Faster with Cura Settings:

There are several printers on the market that can print more quickly than Ender 3, however, those printers are far more expensive. Is there anything you can do to speed up the printing process?

For example, a side spool holder that I print with a two-layer height is one such example I can provide you. You’d have to print it out in around nine hours. At a point two eight-layer height, I can get it done in approximately five and a half hours instead of seven.

Print Faster with Cura

However, I appreciate the zigzag pattern on this design. It seems more like a structure resembling the Eiffel Tower. That’s exactly what I was able to achieve right now. That three-hour print is still going strong, thanks to a few gimmicks like the Open Cura settings and the ender3 maximum machine profile. Let’s slice it at 0.2 layer height to give me extra room. Just where it touches the construction plate, it has three walls, 15% infill, and supports. 8 hours, 43 minutes of slicing.

Optimize Wall Settings:

The printing process took about nine hours. This close-up view of one arm reveals the structure’s inner and outermost sides. This is something I’m putting effort into. We’ll slice it with my 0.28 profile, which should speed things up with the same settings, so let’s see how long that is.

It takes a lot of time for the walls, both inside and outside, to heat and cool. These crosses are classified as outside walls, as are the rest of the inner and outer walls. Inside, they’re silky and comfortable. Because the exterior is what you see, a smooth surface is preferred, which results in slower printing. But because you won’t be able to see it, your infill and other things can print quicker. The exterior walls of all these crosses make them look good, but it takes a long time.

Cura Wall Setting

Infill Settings:

Infill printing time can be reduced by using zigzag patterns. We already know that there are ways to achieve the same result with cura. Here’s a little tutorial to help you out. The top and bottom layers should be zero in order to reveal the infill. Let’s take another look at how much time we’ve saved by cutting it in half. Take a peek at the preview all right now! The infill is now visible. The pattern I’m getting is sort of like a crossing. In spite of the fact that it doesn’t match my vision, I can still see through the arm. Let’s try something new. As a general rule, my profile normally has a 10% infill, therefore I’m going to adjust it to 10%.

The grid will now be triangles, and we can slice it again to see how it appears. As you can see, it’s starting to resemble the original somewhat. You may, however, make the infill walls thicker if necessary because they are brittle. Select the infill line multiplier option from the infill setting. From one until two, that’s what I’ve been planning to do. This means it will be twice as broad. Let’s see what happens when we slice it a second time. There are now thicker and stronger inner walls. I’ve got additional regions that are vulnerable to that.

That’s something I’d want to see a bit more of. So there you have it, again another ruse. Let me show you that I click on the model, and then I come to the left menu and click on support. Blocker allows me to set a block on the design and then can reshape only this block. As a result, I remove the model and only work with the league, which I then resize. I’m – going to use 50 millimeters square x y and z, so I’ll simply set it to 50, and they all change. So I get a 50-millimeter block in all directions now. I need to relocate this and turn it on an angle to line with the arm. In order to accommodate the spool holder, I’m going to lower and position this above that region. As a result, it’s comprehensive.

Per Model Setting:

To improve the speed I need to work on customising the block’s settings as well. I go to the left menu again, go to the per model options, and pick alter settings for overlap. I will choose a new setting, so I click on select settings, and I want to look for top and bottom, but top and bottom are combined. Thicknesses at the apex and apex are to be So that I can create this one to an inch, I’ll need a top and a bottom. So, I can alter this to one millimeter, and then we’re okay and it’s going to slice and put above and bottom there I add comparable blocks at the base and also at the hinge. As a result, I’m now able to Dd the model-specific parameters.

I am now making one millimeter top and bottom thickness. Do the same thing for the hinge one millimeter, and now I can slice it, and let’s see how it looks. However, the time has climbed back up to three hours and twenty-one minutes. Now, let’s look at it in preview: All of the previous block holes have been filled in, and the inside is crisscrossed and double-walled, precisely the way I wanted it. So it’s strong.

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